|
Part 2
Setting
Up the Jig
1. Before you pick up the jig, make a simple crosscut
on your saw to create a 2 foot long piece of your molding
to be used as a template throughout the job.
2. To begin setting up the jig, place your
template piece in the jig with the bottom edge up. This orientation
is very important. Every single cut you make is done with
the bottom of the molding closest to the blade. In English
pubs, people drink toasts by saying "Bottoms up!", which means
they tilt they glasses until the bottom is above the rim,
and they drain their beer in one gulp. (Now that you've read
that, it will be a lot easier to remember "Bottom's up!" every
time you place a piece of crown molding in the jig.)
 3.
Adjust the fence so that the top and bottom edges of the molding
are flush, as shown in the photo at right.. That is, the top
of the molding (which meets the bottom of the jig) should
form a 90 degree angle where it meets the sliding fence.
4. Tighten the two knobs on the jig to lock
in your setting. That's it! You are now all set to make every
compound cut required in a standard crown molding installation.
Making the Cuts
There are only five different cuts required in almost any
crown molding job. You are either cutting a left or right
inside or outside corner, or you are making a splice to join
two lengths of molding on a long wall. As you stand in the
center of a rectangular room and look into one of the four
corners, the piece of molding which will be attached to the
wall on the left of the corner is an "inside left". If your
room has alcoves, or is L-shaped, you will have at least one
outside corner.
Not all corners are exactly 90 degrees. By using the TRUE
ANGLE protractor, you can check each angle. Divide
the number by 2 (the result will invariably be within a degree
or two of 45), and set your saw accordingly for a tight fitting
joint every time. Let's make some cuts...
Take the 2 foot long template piece you cut earlier and write
"Inside" on it. Now you need to cut an inside right on one
end of the template, and an inside left on the other. Let's
begin with the inside right.
Looking
at the saw, swing the blade 45 degrees to your left. Place
the molding in the jig ("Bottom's UP!) and place the jig on
the bed of the saw. The bulk of the workpiece should be to
the left of the blade. Slide the jig so that the cut will
remove a minimum of waste. Make sure the jig is NOT IN THE
PATH OF THE BLADE. Without turning on the saw, drop the blade
to make sure it misses the jig. Adjust if required. Keep your
left hand on the molding inside the confines of the jig (where
it is safe), and make the cut.
To
summarize: On a right inside corner, the blade is 45 degrees
to the left, and the bulk of the workpiece is to the left
of the blade.
What's really nice is that you don't have to remember
that - it's printed right on the jig (along with the orientations
for left inside corners and both outside corners).
Now, let's cut a left inside corner on the other end of the
template. Looking at the saw, swing the blade 45 degrees to
your right. Place the molding in the jig ("Bottom's UP!) and
place the jig on the bed of the saw. The bulk of the workpiece
should be to the right of the blade. Slide the jig so that
the cut will remove a minimum of waste. Make sure the jig
is NOT IN THE PATH OF THE BLADE. Without turning on the saw,
drop the blade to make sure it misses the jig. Adjust if required.
Keep your right hand on the molding inside the confines of
the jig (where it is safe), and make the cut.
To summarize: On a left inside corner, the blade is
45 degrees to the right, and the bulk of the workpiece is
to the right of the blade.
When you are cutting actual pieces (as opposed to the template),
you may have to make a very slight adjustment to the 45 degrees,
depending on how close to 90 degrees your room's corners are.
But you'll be pleasantly surprised that almost all cuts will
end up working quite well with the saw set to 45 degrees.
You now know how to make all your inside and outside corner
cuts. The only thing left to cover is splicing. In that case,
you place the workpiece in the jig ("Bottom's up!"), set the
blade at 45 degrees in either direction, and make a cut at
one end of one piece of molding. Then, leave the setup exactly
the same and make your second cut on the end of a second piece
of molding. As long as the angle of the miter saw blade remains
the same, you'll have a perfect splice every time.
Installation
In one hand, hold the end of the workpiece that fits
in the corner. In the other hand, hold your template. With
the bottoms down, slide them both into the corner and make
minor adjustments until you have a perfect fit (no gaps).
Nail the workpiece in place - a finish nailgun works wonderfully,
and they're cheap to rent.
If the workpiece is more than a couple of feet long, you'll
need a helper. If a live body isn't available, take a look
at Rockler's Multi-Quick support. It's very inexpensive and
it will hold a length of molding in position while you make
minor adjustments and/or nail the piece in place.
Notes
You'll need to make up three templates - one for inside corners,
one for outside corners, and one for splices. They are used
as visual checks so you always make the right cut, and also
to line up the molding on the wall during installation.
Note that the jig doesn't slide on the bed of your saw once
you're set up, or that the molding doesn't slip in the jig.
This is in part due to a non-slip material applied to both
faces of the back (fixed) fence - a small detail but one you'll
be delighted with in the course of the job.
The jig can handle moldings up to 4-7/8" wide (depending on
the angles of the top and bottom edges).
<<<
Page 1 : Crown Molding Made Easy
|
